Still didn't get to the hardwoods, perfecting the restoration first! (updates)

[Bungalocity]

Oh, the poly was $115 for the 5gln tub!
I got everything at Bahr in my old hood, Montrose & Kedvale.

2 BR, LR, DR and bath halls took about an hour per coat. The stain was the hardest.
You cannot stop once you start, and my abs were killing me!

[Nazerac]

I am planning on taking out jambs and sashes.  I am just not too comfortable/experience/energetic/crazy to take out Stool/Apron/Casing.

[Bungalocity]

What's the stool and apron?

[Nazerac]

The bottom part of the window, basically the interior sill (stool) and the part underneath it (in our old windows at least), is the apron.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/overview/0,,20171587,00.html



and here's another good view: (http://www.cityofalbany.net/comdev/historic/windowparts.jpg)



from: http://www.cityofalbany.net/comdev/historic/windows.php

[Bungalocity]

Fascinating!
Thanks for that info.

The apron is easy as pie.  The sill/stool is hard to come out unless you use prune juice,
or a damn good pry bar.

actually, a set of 3 good pry bars is all that is needed.  A 6" putty knife for leverage for things like base.
Prying is an art easily acquired.  What is painful is to see the old paint marks built up over the years.

Another art not so easily acquired is resculpting the areas around which you have taken off, mainly due to
the build up or damage of plaster in doing so.  But with a professional workflow, that's all par for the course and
a normal part (and necessary part) of doing the right job.  To go thru all the trouble and not scrape the buildup
is negligent.  Once you understand the proper workflow you can move quickly and do the right job!

The stools usually have 8-penny nails (big!) and since they're near a high-moisture region, are often rusted
after all these years and make a lot of grinding noise that will make you hair stand on end but once they're out
you realize they are the most solid pieces of trim on the whole house!

[Nazerac]

All right ... you convinced me.  I will start with the attic windows sometime this summer -I got an original small bedroom in the back of the attic.

[berwynguy]

Bungalow City, any updates?  Did you ever get the base boards and trim pieces back on the windows?

[Bungalocity]

I want to! I don't know if the server's full but it won't let me upload any images, Even a 225k jpeg....
nor on any other threads?

[OakParkSpartan]

I want to! I don't know if the server's full but it won't let me upload any images, Even a 225k jpeg....
nor on any other threads?

Thanks for the heads up.

It should work now.

[Bungalocity]

THANKS...let's try out one just for fun...

[Bungalocity]

ah, and what a fun surgery that was! 2 cubes later....

[Bungalocity]

Bungalow City, any updates?  Did you ever get the base boards and trim pieces back on the windows?

OK it's been about a year since I've added any real forward progress to this thread and am wondering if I should start a new one,
or even make them project specific.
Any suggestions would be welcome.

One year later, the Bona Woodline poly has held up magnificently on my floors, I usually only wear rubber soled gymshoes around the house so that helps, I have a couple maniacal cats that use the floors as a launching pad for covert attack missions and I can see no evidence of claw marks anywhere.  SO...2 coats of Bona Woodline Oil finish is tried and tested, if you're going to have them done it's really not any more expensive than the amateur finishes you'll find in a lot of stores around here. Bahr flooring carries it, so does a friend of mine at Niles Color Center although you may find it closer to home. The website has a dealer locator if you're interested.

I've since perfected the art of actually nailing wood trim back in place bare, filing the holes, sanding the putty, masking the walls and then staining in place which significantly reduces the visibility of nail holes.  A nail gun is only good for initial placement so you can get the big 6-penny nails in, NOT as the main securing method. A brad gun will be weak and cause shift over time.

Then counter sink the nails with a nail set (small metal point tool) and fill...
You can see here maybe that the putty did not take the stain like the oak, so after one coat of Tung oil I used a spot brush to stipple a little color in there, then after another day put the 2nd coat of oil on.